Running the Other Way
Hurricanes always provide great fodder for blog posts. There’s something about a good storm that clears the air.
Ocean storms often cause a mass migration away from the coastline. Wisely, families pack up their belongings and literally head for higher ground. It is not uncommon to see lines of cars jockeying their way out of town in an effort to dodge the wrath of an approaching system.
And then there are the surfers.
Surfers are known non-conformists, but this is not just another rant from a contrarian beach bum. Surfers aren’t bucking the system – they’re riding it.
At sunrise this morning I paddled out into the storm surf produced by Irene. The waves were large and powerful. Sets of energy stacked to the horizon, each wave bigger than the last. Punching through to the outside, beyond the breakers, I sat up on my board and breathed in the grandeur of this epic morning. I shared a nod with a surfer in the distance, too far away to smile.
Surfers know that most civilians would consider these life or death conditions. For us, it’s a playground.
It is fun. Not because we are brave, stupid, or filled with bravado (although a serving of each helps), but because we have put ourselves into the stretch zone before. Progressively, we have challenged our comfort level. We’ve taken our risks and knocks – and now it’s fun.
Where do you need to stretch yourself a little? Where do you need to paddle out? Where would you like to play?